The Missing Dispatches
Passu - July 15, 1996. Sleeping in front of a glacier in the middle of nowhere.
Karimabad - Marc experiences dysentary!
Gilgit - Polo.
Skardu - Near K2.
Besham - Rest stop.
Islamabad - Extend visa.
Peshawar - Market. Flew between Hindu Kush mountains.
Chitral - Small town on a river.
Rumbur - Kailash valley hikes.
Bumburet - Kailash valley hikes.
Dir - Rest stop.
Lahore - Palace fort and museum.
Amritsar - Sep 1996. Slept and ate at the Golden Temple.
Dharamsala - Dalai Lama's home in the Himalayas.
Agra - Taj Mahal. Red Fort. Fatehpur Sikhri.
Gwalior - Fort on a hill. Camera died.
Orchha - Cool abandoned palace.
Khajuraho - Erotic temple sculpture.
Sunauli - Oct 1996. Border town.
Tansen - Village in mountains. Hospital tour.
Pokhara - Tourist center.
Kathmandu - Friends. Rested for a few weeks. Palace. Dussain/Dussehra.
Sunauli - Border crossing.
Varanasi - Nov 1996. Diwali/Deepavali.
Pushkar - Camel Festival.
Jaipur - Polluted. Fort and palaces missable.
Bharatpur - Kheoladeo Bird Sanctuary bike tour.
Sanchi - Ancient Buddhist temple.
Bhopal - Tribal Museum.
Indore - Rest stop.
Mandu - Bike around ruins on plateau.
Omkareshwar - Temple town.
Jalgaon - Marc gets typhoid fever for Christmas.
Bombay - See it to believe it.
Udaipur - Nice palace and people.
Delft - Jan 1997. Stayed with Karin's sister for two months. Vlooienmarkt for lekkerbek. Omniversum Museum in Den Haag. Wereld Museum in Rotterdam. Roamed country visiting friends we met in Asia. Ate too many sweets. Karin got chicken pox!
Haarlem - De Tropen Museum in Amsterdam. Long bike ride in freezing rain.
Castricum - Zandvoort sand dunes. Alkmaar.
Maastricht - Cheese and wine tour in nearby Dutch, German, and Belgian monasteries.
USA & Netherlands Antilles
Miami - March 1997. Stayed with Marc's mom for a month.
Palm Bay - Visited friends, and completed the circle. Nothing has changed!
St. Maarten - Visited Karin's parents, and friends in Anguilla, in May 1997.
Curacao - Visited Karin's sisters in July 1997.
Miami - Retrieved belongings from storage, and loaded minivan.
Palm Bay - Rented an apartment in Aug 1997.
Curacao - Karin's father passed away in Sep 1997.
Palm Bay - Bought a car and a computer in Jan 1998.
Pass Christian, MS - Visited friends for Mardi Gras 1998, and went to New Orleans. Friends in Tallahassee.
Palm Bay - Relaxed until 1999, then got jobs. The 3.5-year honeymoon ends.
Took a few short trips during six years, to see friends and family in Curacao, Vermont, DC, Chicago, Boston, and Boulder.
Back to Asia
US Road Trip: Part 1
Jun 29, 2005. On the road again, starting with a five-month, 15,000-mile road trip in a 14-year-old car with 275,000 miles.
Miami - Visited Marc's mom for a month. Karin visited family in Curacao.
Palm Bay - Last chance to see friends.
Jacksonville, FL - Friends
St. George, SC
Fayetteville, NC - Airborne & Special Operations Museum
Paeonian Springs, VA - Friends. Great Falls NP. Smithsonian's National Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center at Dulles. Waterford.
Washington & Old Dominion Trail.
Arlington, VA - Friends. Four days touring DC.
Brattleboro, VT - Friends
Boston, MA - Friends. Minuteman Trail NP. Museum of Science. Lascivious Biddies
Providence, RI - Roger Williams Park & Zoo
Newport, RI - Cliff Walk along ocean to see mansions. Camped in Middletown.
Mystic Seaport, MA - Tall-ships museum
Brattleboro, VT - Friends. Green Mountain National Forest. Pick blueberries.
Ithaca, NY - Toured Cornell University
Rochester, NY - Seneca Falls Zoo
Buffalo, NY - Niagara Falls at dawn.
Cleveland, OH - Metropolitan Zoo
Sandusky, OH - Rode 18 rollercoasters in 11 hours at Cedar Rapids.
Chicago, IL - Friends. Brookfield Zoo.
Iowa City, IA - Lunch
Pella, IA - Dutch village; now a bit too touristy.
Omaha, NE - Amazing Henry Doorly Zoo for entire day, and should have made it two, or gotten a job there!
Whiting, IA - Camping in a cornfield along the Missouri River.
Mitchell, SD - Corn Palace
Badlands NP - Camp
Mount Rushmore National Monument
Custer State Park, SD - Should be a National Park. Big Horn Mountains.
Cody, WY - Bull-riding rodeo. Beartooth Pass. Buffalo Bill Historical Center:
The Plains Indian Museum,
The Whitney Gallery of Western Art,
The Buffalo Bill Museum,
The Draper Museum of Natural History (Yellowstone ecosystem), and
The Cody Firearms Museum.
Yellowstone NP -Three interesting days full of elk, wolves, grizzly bears, waterfalls, and geysers; and two below-freezing nights in a tent.
Big Sky, MT - Friends. Hiked trails. Bozeman Farmer's Market. Saw a moose. Snow in August.
Glacier NP - Another amazing place.
Pendleton, OR - Camped next to a great rodeo.
Columbia River drive: Maryhills Museum, Bonneville Lock and Dam, and many waterfalls.
Cascade Locks, OR - Camp
Portland, OR - Nice zoo, and interesting city.
Mount St. Helen's National Volcanic Monument
Mt. Rainier NP
Seattle, WA - Friends. Woodland Park Zoo. Pike Place Market. Underground Tour.
Olympic NP - Another fascinating park.
Bruceport County Park, WA - Camp
Beaver, OR - Tillamook Cheese Factory. Three Cape Scenic Drive.
Florence, OR - Waterford Depot for a great meal.
Rogue-Umpqua National Scenic Byway - Autumn colors the whole way.
Crater Lake NP
Klamath Falls, OR - Tule Lake rookery
Lava Beds National Monument
Redding, CA - Sundial Bridge
Arcata, CA. Eureka to eat at the Samoa Cookhouse.
Humboldt Redwoods State Park, CA
Ft. Bragg, CA - Museum
Berkeley, CA - Friends. San Francisco.
Yosemite NP - A real favorite. Stayed longer than planned.
June Lake Loop Road - Autumn colors.
Bishop, CA - Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest
Death Valley National Monument
Las Vegas, NV - Saw the Strip, slept, and left.
Zion NP - Another favorite.
Bryce NP - Drive-in wonder.
Grand Staircase Escalante NP - Autumn colors too.
Capitol Reef NP - Remote and colorful, with slot canyons.
Arches NP - Unique
Canyonlands NP - Liked it more than Grand Canyon.
Mesa Verde NP - Worthy stop.
Taos and Santa Fe, NM
Albuquerque, NM - Rest stop.
El Morro National Monument
Gallup, NM - Rest stop.
Canyon de Chelly National Monument
Goosenecks State Park, UT - Impressive river bends.
Monument Valley, AZ - Magical
Cameron, AZ - Rest stop.
Grand Canyon NP - South Rim at dawn on a cold morning.
Kingman, AZ - Rest stop.
Bakersfield, CA - Basque lunch
Morro Bay, CA - Friend's place to prep for Asia. San Luis Obispo. Piedras Blancas elephant seal colony.
Coastal drive through Big Sur, Monterrey, and SF.
Berkeley, CA - Friends. San Francisco. Camera died two hours before heading to SF Airport.
Nov 28, 2005. A week of eating dim sum, interrupted by walks between restaurants. Pollution was overwhelming.
Stopped just for H.M. King Bumipol Adulyadej's gigantic 79th birthday party on Dec 5th. Visited friends. Grand opening of Siam Paragon.
Angkor Wat - Dec 11, 2005. Two days visiting temples, and no camera. Six days relaxing from the last five months of travel.
Battambang - Overhyped boat ride to quiet city. Cooking class.
Phnom Penh - Good food every day and night, overlooking a wide esplanade along the Mekong River. Central Market. Palace.
National Museum. Cooking class.
Kampot - Quiet town on river, close to ocean.
Phnom Penh - Palace and museum. Nice esplanade along Mekong.
Bangkok, Thailand - Overnighted to pick up repaired camera.
Yangon - Jan 11, 2006. Shwedagon Temple.
Thazi - Rest stop after awful train ride.
Kalaw - Small town in the hills.
Nyaungshwe - Inle Lake canoe trip to village. Walk in hills.
Mandalay - U Bein's Bridge in Amarapura. Sagaing temples. Inwa ruins. Cruise down Irrawaddy River to Bagan.
Bagan - Temples in all directions.
Bangkok - Feb 8, 2006. Friends, and lots of good food. International Film Festival.
Khao Yai NP - Saw plenty of animals on a well-guided hike in the forest.
Chiang Khan - Mekong River town.
Sang Khom - Another quiet little village on the Mekong.
Vientiane - Mar 4, 2006. Lao National Museum. Hard to believe it is a capital.
Luang Prabang - One of our favorite places.
Muang Ngoi Neua - Tiny village up a small river.
Udomxai - Rest from long day on road.
Luang Nam Tha - Two-day hike, Ban Nalan Trail, Nam Ha National Protected Area.
Huay Xai - Unrecognizable ten years later.
Chiang Khong - Apr 2, 2006. Mekong River border town.
Chiang Mai - A month of relaxation, and five days of Songkran.
Kolkata/Calcutta - May 3, 2006. Shocking re-introduction. Too hot, also.
Siliguri - Toy train for seven hours.
Darjeeling - Three weeks of wandering the hills, and acclimating to India again, though quite Nepali and Tibetan.
Morning view of Kanchenjunga, world's third highest peak.
Kalimpong - Area with many Tibetans, and lots of orchids.
Siliguri - Unavoidable town, for train.
Delhi - Friends
Leh - Flight turned around just before landing due to bad weather. Arrived Jun 18, 2006 at 11,500 feet, with
snow on the mountains. Stayed three months to relax, and avoid the monsoon, but it made it there for the first time
anyone remembers, and caused extensive damage to mud houses and terraced fields, and left us with an hour of
electricity a day. Thiksey. Hemis Festival. Alchi. Dah Hanu. Ladakh Festival.
Keylong - Sep 7, 2006. Bus through the mountains across high-elevation passes.
Vashist - Manali forest walk.
Naggar - Three-day hike over Chandrakani Pass.
Shimla - Hill station that the British used as summer capital. Wonderful toy train ride over 92 old bridges, and through 103 short tunnels.
Chandigarh - Modern planned city. Almost all men are Sikh, so turbans everywhere! Rock Garden of mosaic walls and statues.
Delhi - Friends. Craft Museum very much worth seeing.
Jaigaon - Border town for quick visit to Bhutan.
Gangtok - Dussain/Dusshera. Rumtek Monastery. Flower Show Complex.
Pelling - Rimbi Falls. Sewaro Rock Garden. Kanchenjunga Falls. Khecheopalri Monastery and Lake. Pemayangtse
Darjeeling - Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Center. Lloyd's Botanical Garden. Happy Valley Tea Estate. Ghoom. Sonada Gompa.
Siliguri - Train
Kolkata/Calcutta - Old British market. Indian Museum. Sweets. Music shopping.
Bangkok - Oct 27, 2006. Friends.
Chiang Mai - Six weeks of Thai language lessons, so we could get off tourist trail. Loy Krathong. Royal Flora Ratchapruek Expo. European
Union Film Festival. Food and Entertainment Festival at the 700 Year Stadium.
Chiang Khong - Border town on Mekong.
Huay Xai - Dec 24, 2006. Border town on Mekong.
Paksan - Small town on Mekong.
Ban Kong Lo - Small boat on river that runs through a mountain for 7km.
Tha Khaek - Small town on Mekong.
Savannakhet - Large town on Mekong.
Pakse - Small town on Mekong. Friend we met in Beijing in 1996 joined us.
Sekong - Village tour
Attepeu - Small town in the SE corner.
Mukdahan - Jan 29, 2007. Small border city on the Mekong, with cute night market.
That Phanom - Small city on the Mekong. Temple festival
Nakhon Phanom - Large border city on the Mekong.
Beung Kan - Small city on the Mekong.
Nong Khai - Border city on the Mekong, with good seafood at small night market. Sala Kaew Ku, a park full of enormous Hindu statues.
Chiang Khan - Small town on the Mekong. Huay Krating to float on a lake in bamboo huts.
Phrae - Rest stop
Nan - Bike tour of countryside with Fhu Travel. Temple festival. Nan National Museum.
Lampang - Elephant Conversation Center for an hour elephant ride. Wat Phra That Lampang Luang.
Chiang Mai - Favorite rest place. Art & Culture Fest.
Ayuthaya - Songkran with friends.
Bangkok - Friends
US Road Trip: Part 2
Berkeley, CA - Apr 19, 2007. Friends. San Francisco. Lots of lovely food. Javanese Gamelan performance. University
Symphony Orchestra & Chorus. Napa Valley. Muir Woods. Rented a new Chrysler Sebring for two-month road trip home.
Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute in Moss Landing
Morro Bay, CA - Avila Beach. Oceano. Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes Complex. Santa Maria. Arroyo Grande. San
Luis Obispo for the Thursday Street Market & Street Party. Jocko's Steak House in Nipomo. Cayucos. Carrizo
Plain National Monument.
Bakersfield, CA - Friends. Basque food. Buck Owen's Crystal Palace.
King's Canyon NP and Sequoia NP
Kanarraville, UT - Camp by Kolob Canyon section of Zion NP.
Zion NP - Camp in main section. Angel's Landing.
Kanab, UT - Camp
Grand Canyon NP - North Rim
Lee's Ferry, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area - Nice spot to camp on Colorado River. Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center.
Wahweap, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area - Camp by Lake Powell and Dam. Horseshoe Bend.
Navajo National Monument
Tuba City - Lunch
Monument Valley Tribal Park - Camped for three days. Many good walks, drives, and meals. Kayenta for Wednesday Flea Market.
Goosenecks State Park, UT - Impressive river bends.
Moki Dugway to Muley Point Overlook for a great view of Valley of the Gods.
Natural Bridges National Monument
Blanding, UT - Rest for a couple days.
Bandelier National Monument - Camp. Bradbury Science Museum in Los Alamos.
Santa Fe, NM - Great food. Museum of International Folk Art for interesting and well-presented exhibits.
Alamogordo - White Sands National Monument. White Sands Missile Range Museum.
La Mesa for dinner at Chope's. Drive through El Paso.
Guadalupe Mountains NP - Camp and hike.
Carlsbad Caverns National Monument - Must see.
Dallas, TX - Friends. Sixth Floor Museum, the building from where Lee Harvey Oswald shot Kennedy. Lots of BBQ.
Eunice, LA - Heart of Cajun country. Boudin. Savoy Music Center. Acadian Cultural Center, Jean Lafitte National
Historical Park & Preserve. Liberty Theater to see Jambalaya Cajun Band. Opelousas for dinner, and Evangeline Downs Casino.
Lafayette, LA - Vermillionville. Jean Lafitte NHPP.
Delcambre, LA - Friends. Tabasco Factory. New Iberia (James Lee Burke books). St. Martinville. Atchafalaya Basin. Breaux Bridge
Tour: Houma, NPS JLNHPP Acadian Culture Center in Thibodaux, and Baton Rouge.
Biloxi, MS - Rest stop, and a real shocker to see what the hurricane did.
Jacksonville, FL - Friends.
Palm Bay, FL - Scrambled around area visiting everyone we know, after being away two years.
Miami, FL - Marc's mom. July 2, 2007.
Curacao - July 24, 2007: Visit Karin's family.
Miami, FL - Aug 21 to Sep 28, 2007. Everglades NP.
Palm Bay, FL - Back on the road. Saw as many friends and doctors as possible. Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge.
St. Augustine - Fort Matanzas National Monument. Castillo de San Marcos National Monument.
Jacksonville, FL - Friends.
Atlanta, GA - Friends. Atlanta Station. CNN. One speed: 80 mph bumper-to-bumper, while on the phone.
Asheboro, NC - Very good NC Zoological Park.
Arlington, VA - Friends. DC again. Visit friends in Frederick, MD and Paeonian Springs.
Brattleboro, VT - Friends. Rutland. Burlington.
JFK Airport and Vienna Airport
Delhi - Nov 1, 2007. Friends. Craft Museum again.
Agra - Taj Mahal. Diwali.
Fatehpur Sikri - See Akbar's Palace; as good as the first time.
Ajmer - Sleep
Pushkar - Camel Fair. Nine days, and just as good as twelve years ago.
Jodhpur - Incredible palace fort, overlooking blue city. Mandore Gardens; nice temples and trees, real fun with 100 langurs.
Jaisalmer - Desert fort, but not worth the effort.
Ahmedabad - Congested and polluted.
Bhuj - West Gujarat town with nice people and clean air. Mandvi boat-building. Kutch tour.
Jamnagar - Old town.
Dwarka - Krishna temples on coast.
Junagadh - Big fort.
Diu - Ex-Portuguese island for Christmas and New Years.
Palitana - 4000 steps up, and 4000 down, to see some Jain temples.
Surat - To sleep after a bad bus ride. Congested and polluted.
Jalgaon - Ajanta Caves
Aurangabad - Ellora, with an impressive main temple worth a day alone.
Nasik - Kumbh Mela town with ghats like Varanasi. Trimbak.
Pune - Polluted and congested.
Kohlapur - Nice palace.
Hampi - Like Bedrock with temples. A backpacker hang-out.
Bangalore - Another polluted and congested city. Hospital for Marc's mystery backpain.
Hassan - Hoysala temples at Belur and Halebid, but Somnathpur near Mysore probably better.
Mysore - Amazing palace.
Thrissur - Nice intro to Kerala.
Kochi - Backwater boat trips. Nets.
Thiruvananthapuram/Trivandrum - Zoo. Padmanabhapuram Palace.
Madurai - Colorful Meenakshi Temple
Tiruvannamalai - Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, which is worth the trouble.
Pondicherry - Brief stop in former French colony.
Mamallapuram - Touristy coastal village with magnificent boulder friezes, shrines, and Shore Temple.
Chennai - Brief stop, but looking forward to returning, especially to Annalakshmi Restaurant.
Tirupathi - Tirumala Hill temple, the richest, and most-visited pilgrimmage site in the world.
Vijayawada & Visakhapatnam - Rest stops.
Jagdalpur - Tribal areas in mountains of Chhattisgarh.
Jeypore - Base for tribal areas in south Orissa.
Onukudelli - Tribal area.
Visakhapatnam - Visit friend.
Puri - Sun Temple in Konark. Fishing village on the beach.
Kolkata / Calcutta
Penang - Apr 18, 2008. Friends. National Park. Chinese temples and shophouses. Penang Hill. Balik Pulau. Daily dim sum.
Bangkok - May 7, 2008. Friends.
Chiang Mai - Rest for six-weeks, and take Thai reading and writing lessons.
Bangkok - Friends.
Kuching, Sarawak - Jun 29, 2008. Planned five, stayed 101! Seafood overload. Chinese temples and shophouses. Bako NP.
Tun Jugah Pua Kumbu Museum. Semenggoh Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. Textile Museum. Sarawak Museum.
Chinese Cultural Museum. Regatta longboat races. Kuching Festival Parade. Hungry Ghost Festival.
Kubah NP and Matang Wildlife Center hike. Mid-Autumn/Lantern/Mooncake Festival. Wind and Fairy Caves. Bau.
Sibu - Rejang river city. Chinese temple. Giant market. Sibu Gateway.
Kapit - Rejang river town.
Telawan - Rejang river school. Help children with English. Longboat to longhouse. Saw hornbills.
Belaga - Rejang river town. Rest stop.
Miri - Rest stop.
Kota Kinabalu, Sabah - Friend from Florida. Waterfront markets. Sunday Market. Tamu Donggongan traditional market.
Sabah Museum. Superb seafood. Nice sunsets at Tanjung Aru. Enjoyed monsoon.
Bangkok - Nov 2, 2008. Friends. Taling Chan Floating Market. Wat Arun. Wat Traimit. Chinatown walk. Wat Suthat. Loy Krathong.
Hanoi - Nov 21, 2008. Hoan Kiem Lake. Old Quarter. Temple of Literature. Ethnology Museum. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and
Museum. Museum of Vietnamese Revolution. Water Puppet Theater.
Halong City, Bay Chay side - Halong Bay cruise
Cat Ba Island - Halong Bay cruise and kayaking. National Park hike.
Ninh Binh - Bike to temples and karst mountains.
Dong Hoi - Quiet town with nice market and beach.
Hue - Imperial Enclosure. Enjoyed cafes and rain.
Hoi An - Old City. Bike to tombs, temples, and beach.
Kon Tum - The friendly town. Visited villages, orphanages, and hill-tribe museum. Stayed 11 days for Christmas celebrations.
Qui Nhon - Quiet beachside town.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) - Reunification Palace. Jade Emperor Pagoda. Hydrofoil to Vung Tau for seafood. Cao Dai Temple.
Cu Chi Tunnels. War Remnants Museum.
Ben Tre - Market
Can Tho - Floating Markets and backwater boat trip. Museum. Chinese Temple. Khmer Temple.
Ha Tien - Market
Kampot - Jan 8, 2009. Temple. Market. Nice walks. Good food and sunsets.
Phnom Penh - Wat Phnom. Central Market. Good food.
Siem Reap - Angkor Wat. Friends.
Penang - Jan 23, 2009. Friends. Chinese New Year. Rest stop.
Singapore - March 6, 2009. Friends. Jurong Bird Park. Zoo. Chinatown Heritage Center. Asian Civilisations Museum.
Night Safari. Bukit Timah Nature Reserve.
Kuching - Mar 15, 2009. Friends. Hong San Si Temple Parade. Berumuh Festival in Serian. Qing Ming Tomb Sweeping Ceremony.
MBKS Kuching History Photo Gallery. Serikin border market. Santubong trail hike. Dewan Tun Abdul Razak Museum.
Hainan Matsu celebration and dinner. Friendship Garden. Sematan Fair and beach. Lundu and Pandan Beach. Gunung Gading NP.
Dumpling Festival. Borneo Highlands. Gawai.
Bangkok - Jun 11, 2009. Friends
Reggio Emilia - Jun 18, 2009. Friends. Market. Montecchio Emilia. Montecchiarugulo. San Polo d'Enza. Appenine NP in Toscana/Tuscany to hunt
porcini mushrooms. Parma. Taneto. Canossa and Rossena Castles. Tibet House in Votigno. Rubiera. Notte Bianca Festival
in Correggio. Traversetolo Market. Multicultural Festival in Collecchio. Bologna. Cavriago for Fiesta.
Padova - Friends. Basilica di San Antonio. Saw laurea for dottores. Venice. Abano Terme. Valsanzibio di Galzignano. Arqua Petrarca.
Abbazia di Praglia in Teolo. Montegrotto Terme. Train through Innsbruck, Austria to Germany.
Munich - Jul 20, 2009. Friends. Bad Wiessee. Tengernsee. Bad Tolz. Dachau.
Olomouc - Jul 26, 2009. Friends. Mohelnice. Litomysl. Sternberk. Zoo. Kromeriz. Prostejov.
Frydlant nad Ostravici - Friend. Wallachian Wooden Village Museum in Roznov pod Radhostem.
Krakow - Aug 16, 2009. Kazimierz. Old Town. Wawel Castle. New Jewish Cemetery.
Gdansk - Friends. Oliwa.
Wilhelmshaven - Aug 26, 2009. Friends. Bremen. Spiekeroog in Wattenmeer NP. German Emigration Center in Bremerhaven.
Dusseldorf - Altstadt at night.
Miami - Sep 3, 2009. Family and friends.
Brattleboro, VT - Friends. Autumn leaves. University of Rhode Island and Naragansett Beach. Northhampton, MA.
Miami - Family and friends. Daytrip in small plane to Melbourne; and by road for a couple days.
Palm Bay - Jan 1, 2010. Apartment.
Curacao, Netherlands Antilles - Feb 1. Visit family for a month. Carnival parades. Meet Couchsurfing group.
Palm Bay -